1. POSITIONING BOTTLE
Bottle is placed lengthwise on Cutter with bottom flush against backstop and resting on the rollers. The position of the backstop and rear rollers determine the point at which you cut the bottle. To adjust length, loosen screw and slide backstop and rollers forward for a shorter cut and backward for a longer cut. To make an extremely shallow cut (for coasters, ash trays, etc.) remove screw from slot and reverse position of backstop. See sketch.
When cutting a bottle or jug of larger diameter (up to a gallon or larger), increase distance between rear rollers and backstop so that bottle rests securely on rollers.
2. ETCHING THE GLASS
Using a round smooth bottle with parallel sides, select the location for the desired cut. Adjust the backstop to this length and place the bottle on the cutter as shown in sketch.
A light etch is all that is required. Apply only slight pressure on the bottle while rotating the bottle toward you with your hands. Not the position of the hands in sketch. To assure an accurate cut, keep the bottle firm against the backstop. Do not allow the bottle to stop turning while scribing the etch. A slight crunching sound will signal the completion of the etch. ONE REVOLUTION OF THE BOTTLE IS ALL THAT IS NECESSARY. Best results are obtained, and damage to the cutter wheel is avoided when the etch is not duplicated. If the etch is properly scribed the ends will meet.
3. HEATING THE ETCH
Before the bottle can be separated, it first must be uniformly heated. Light the candle and slowly rotate the bottle in one direction with the tip of the flame about an eigth of an inch directly under the etch. Usually about three or four revolutions are sufficient.
Then rotate the bottle two or three times at a faster pace to give a final uniform temperature to the glass. The bottle should feel hot to the touch, but not too hot to handle.
4. SEPARATING THE BOTTLE
Place bottle in an upright position and, before te bottle cools, rub an ice cube around the etched line one or more revolutions until the etch becomes a crack. Crack should continue completely around the bottle.
If a slight tug on the two pieces fails to separate them, don’t try to force them apart. Return bottle to the candle flame and reheat the etch as in step 3. During this reheating process, you may hear audible “clicks” indicating that the uncracked portions along the etch are now cracking. After heating again, try to separate the two parts once more. Remember, don’t use undue force, let the glass work itself free! (Sometimes, it’s necessary to repeat the heating and cooling steps several times depending on the thickness of the glass.)
5. SMOOTHING THE EDGE
To prevent chipping, rub the inside and outside edges lightly with a piece of the coarser polishing paper. See sketch. Then, sprinkle a small amount of the polishing powder on a flat, hard surface; a glass or metal pie plate or a piece of window glass works fine. Do not use any surface of value for polishing since the polishing powder will cause scratches. Dip the edge of the glass in water and then place on the polishing surface. Start to grind in a circular motion as shown in sketch. After a short time, the edge of the glass will become perfectly flat and have a dull gray appearance. Again, smooth the inside and outside edges with the polishing paper.
The finer polishing paper should be used to give a final smooth finish. Use water on the paper periodically while polishing.
- Brush some light machine oil on cutting wheel prior to cutting.
- The lighter the etch, the better the separation.
- For best results, keep the candle flame out of drafts.
- Do not cut over labels.
- The glass cutting wheel should always be at a right angle to the glass surface.
- When cutter seems dull, loosen cutter screw and turn wheel until new blade is in cutting position.
- If the bottle has a very large diameter (not under 2 inches) loosen the cutting head screw and re-adjust the cutting wheel so that the top of the cutter fits against the glass.